Painting portraits with watercolor can feel like a big challenge, but it's also one of the most rewarding things I do! In this article, I'll walk you through my personal process step by step.
This is the way I paint when I want the final portrait to look finished and detailed. I'll share everything from the materials I use to my favorite final touches!
Contents
- 1 Step 1: Choose the Right Paper and Tools
- 2 Step 2: Prepare a Light Skin Tone Base
- 3 Step 3: Soften Hard Edges with a Damp Brush
- 4 Step 4: Paint Shadows Around Eyes and Nose
- 5 Step 5: Add Base Color for Eyes and Hair
- 6 Step 6: Apply Blush and Warmer Skin Tones
- 7 Step 7: Deepen the Shadows for Realism
- 8 Step 8: Compare Tones Using a Color Chart
- 9 Step 9: Paint Brows, Lashes, and Fine Details
- 10 Step 10: Make Subtle Tonal Adjustments
- 11 Step 11: Take Breaks and Review Your Painting
- 12 Step 12: Add Freckles and White Highlights
- 13 Step 13: Paint Expressive Hair and Splashes
- 14 Step 14: Include Decorative Elements
- 15 The Bottom Line
Step 1: Choose the Right Paper and Tools
Before I start painting, I make sure I have the right materials. This really makes a difference in how the painting turns out.
For a more detailed and layered portrait, I always use 100% cotton watercolor paper. Right now, I'm using paper from Arteza, and I like how it handles multiple layers.
If I'm just doing a study, I sometimes sketch directly onto the paper. But for a serious portrait like this one, I don't do that. Instead, I sketch on a separate sheet and trace it onto the watercolor paper using a lightbox.
This keeps the final surface clean and strong for all the layers ahead.

Step 2: Prepare a Light Skin Tone Base
Once my sketch is ready, it's time to add the base skin color. This part sets the tone for the entire face.
For this portrait, I use a very diluted mix of Permanent Alizarin Crimson and Raw Sienna. I apply it gently to the skin areas, keeping the wash light and transparent.
I try to avoid parts of the face that are supposed to stay lighter. It's all about building soft layers from the beginning.

Step 3: Soften Hard Edges with a Damp Brush
Watercolor can dry with harsh lines if you're not careful. Here's how I handle that.
After I lay down the first wash, I soften the edges right away using a damp brush. I just place the color, clean my brush, and gently blend out the edge.
It sounds simple, but it takes a bit of practice. Don't worry—you'll get better with every try!

Step 4: Paint Shadows Around Eyes and Nose
Now it's time to add some shadows to make the face look more three-dimensional.
These small shadow areas—especially near the eyes and nose—are tricky. That's why I switch to a smaller brush for more control. I imagine each shadow as a simple shape, and I paint it like that.
It helps me stay focused and not overthink the forms.

Step 5: Add Base Color for Eyes and Hair
Once the skin base is dry, I move on to the eyes and hair. I apply a light wash to place the main colors where they belong.
When it comes to the hair, I don't go into tiny details. Instead, I find the big shapes and paint them like I do with the skin. Then, I add a few floating hair strands around those shapes to keep it natural-looking.
That way, the hair doesn't look like a helmet!

Step 6: Apply Blush and Warmer Skin Tones
This next step adds life to the face! It's time to blush.
Some areas of the face naturally get more red. Usually, I use Alizarin Crimson for these spots. But every face is different. In this portrait, I need a more orangey tone, so I mix it accordingly.
I layer the color gently to keep it soft and realistic.

Step 7: Deepen the Shadows for Realism
Now, the fun and scary part: adding darker shadows for contrast.
I take my original skin tone mixture and mix it in a cool color, like blue, green, or neutral tint. For this one, I use a neutral shade to deepen the color.
I admit that placing a darker color on a light portrait feels risky. But I remind myself: these shadows are necessary. Without them, there's no depth.

Step 8: Compare Tones Using a Color Chart
Here's a little trick that helps me stay objective. I keep a color chart on a separate piece of watercolor paper next to me. That's how I compare tones instead of relying on what's already painted.
It helps me stay confident in my choices, especially when I feel unsure about how dark to go.
Step 9: Paint Brows, Lashes, and Fine Details
We're getting to the fine details now—this part needs a gentle touch. To paint eyelashes and eyebrows, I use a thin but soft brush. I always start light.
Then, if a line looks right, I go over it again with darker paint. This way, if I make a mistake, it's easy to fix or cover-up. It's a careful process, but it pays off!

Step 10: Make Subtle Tonal Adjustments
The portrait is almost done, but these small tweaks can level it up. At this stage, I start comparing my painting to the reference image more closely.
I notice if any shadow is still too light, and I paint another layer on top. These changes are subtle, but they make a big difference in the final result.

Step 11: Take Breaks and Review Your Painting
After spending hours on a portrait, I know it's easy to miss things. So, I take a break and photograph my painting with my phone.
I move the image to my computer and compare it side-by-side with the reference photo. This trick helps me see issues that I couldn't spot while painting. It works!
Step 12: Add Freckles and White Highlights
Now comes a playful part—adding freckles and highlights. For freckles, I use paint splatters.

For highlights, I prefer white gouache over a gel pen. Gouache gives me better control with a brush, and the best part? I can erase it with water if I make a mistake!

Step 13: Paint Expressive Hair and Splashes
To bring even more life into the painting, I add floating hair strands and splashes.
These strokes are bold and expressive. They only take a minute—but yes, you need a little courage! Once you paint them, there's no going back. But trust me, it's worth it. They bring energy to the whole portrait!

Step 14: Include Decorative Elements
Sometimes, I like to finish with a special detail, like flowers or graphic elements.
For this portrait, I add magnolia drawings using micron pens. I usually just improvise the design, but sometimes I plan it on my iPad. This time, I got lucky! The composition worked out great.

Finally, when the portrait is done, I love to share it.

The Bottom Line
Watercolor portraits take time, patience, and lots of layering—but they're so rewarding! I hope my process gives you ideas for your portrait painting journey.
Each step adds something special, and every brushstroke builds confidence. Try applying these tips to your next piece. Enjoy the creative flow and trust your instincts—you'll surprise yourself!