Easy Watercolor Magnolia Tutorial for a Mother’s Day Card

Mother's Day is just around the corner, and what better way to celebrate than with a hand-painted card?

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to paint a gorgeous magnolia flower using simple watercolor techniques.

Whether you're a beginner or looking to brush up on your skills, I've made this tutorial easy to follow so you can create something truly special for Mother's Day.

Let's explore the materials and steps to bring this beautiful flower to life!

Materials You'll Need

Before we start painting, let's review the materials I'll use for this project. I want to ensure you have everything necessary to create the perfect watercolor magnolia.

Watercolors

To begin with, I'm using two different hues of red for the petals.

The first is Quinacridone Red from Shinhan, which has a soft, rosy pinkish hue. The second is Alizarin Crimson from Winsor & Newton, a deeper red.

Mixing these two colors can create more dynamic and natural-looking petals.

I'll be mixing Burnt Umber and Sepia for the shadows to get that darker, richer tone. These will help define the petal folds and give the flower depth.

For the buds and leaves, we need some green tones. I chose Phthalo Green Light mixed with Brown Pink to create a natural, muted green.

As for the branches, I'll use Sepia mixed with a little Neutral Tint—a darker, blue-gray shade that adds realism to the branches.

Brushes

I'll use three sizes of brushes: 10, 8, and 6. The larger brushes are perfect for broad strokes and filling in larger areas.

The smaller brush, size 6, is for detailing and refining smaller sections, like the veins on the leaves.

Paper

It's crucial to use good-quality paper when working with watercolors. I'll use Arches Co-Pressed Paper (300gsm, 100% cotton).

This paper helps hold the paint well, giving you more control and better results.

Step 1: Petal Painting Techniques

Before we jump straight into painting the magnolia, practicing some basic techniques is a good idea. This wilchnique: Wet-on-Wet Petal Painting

Start by mixing Quinacridone Red and Alizarin Crimson. I like to use both colors because they give the petals a natural variation.

Now, take your larger brush—size 8 or 10—and wet the area where you'll paint the petal.

Once the paper is wet, apply the darker shade of red at the bottom of the petal. This creates a shadow area, usually where the petals fold or overlap.

Then, with a clean brush, drag the color upwards to create a smooth transition from dark to light.

This technique is called “wet-on-wet,” where you apply paint to wet paper, allowing the colors to blend naturally. It's one of the easiest ways to get a smooth gradient effect on watercolor petals.

One thing you'll want to avoid is the “bloom” effect, which can happen if you add too much water to your paint.

This causes the pigment to push away from the area and form a cauliflower-like texture.

To prevent this, I avoid dipping my brush in water when darkening the colors. Instead, I add more pigment directly to the wet areas. This way, I get a smoother finish without the unwanted texture.

Second Technique: Adding Shadows to Petals

After the first layer of paint has dried, it's time to add shadows. Mix a bit of Burnt Umber and Sepia to create a darker tone.

Wet the shadow areas where you want to add depth using a clean brush. Then, drop in the darker colors. Blend them gently to create smooth transitions from shadow to light.

This technique helps give the petals dimension and makes them look more realistic.

I recommend taking your time with this part—build up the shadows gradually, adding more pigment as necessary.

Step 2: Painting the First Magnolia Flower

Let's begin painting the first magnolia flower. I'm starting with the petal we just practiced, making it easier to get into the flow.

Start with the First Petal

I mix Alizarin Crimson with Quinacridone Rose. I also keep a clean brush ready on standby. I begin at the darkest area of the petal and pull the paint upward.

The pigment is intense here, so I drag it up to show that gradient.

Then, I switch to my clean brush and blend out the color. If I want more depth or intensity, I add red and pull it upward again.

Since this is the petal curve, I follow that natural curve while blending.

While the layer is still wet, I keep blending the colors gently. I want to darken the area under the folded part a bit more. So, I go back in with my brush to deepen that shade.

Now, I dry off my clean brush slightly to have less water and softly blend out the pigment. This step helps the transition look smooth.

Continue Petal by Petal

I don't move to the petal beside the one I just painted. Instead, I go to the top petal.

This one is lighter, so I prepare a lighter shade than the first petal. Again, I start from the bottom, with more shadow on the right side.

I apply the darker shade there and then blend it with my clean brush.

Moving on to the next petal, I notice it's even lighter than the last. I blend it softly with just a bit of water.

Looking at the heel of the petal, I decide to darken the bottom a bit more and then blend again.

Now, I'm working on a petal that's almost pure white. So, I only use a very light pink wash. I see a shadow on the upper left of the petal, so I paint it there and blend it gently.

Next, I move on to another petal. As I paint each one, I always compare the colors. For example, I adjust my pigment if this new petal needs to be lighter than the last.

I bring the color over to the area and blend it out. 

At this point, I notice my pencil marks are too dark. So, I gently lighten them before continuing.

Now that one petal is dry, I move to the middle petal. I see more pink tones here, so I add more pink and even a bit of red to the side.

I also leave a white line between the two petals to create separation.

Instead of switching to a clean brush this time, I add more water to my brush. This gives me a lighter shade and helps me gradually pull the color outward.

Since the pink is still pretty strong, this water helps me soften the transition.

I also notice a hint of yellow in this area. To make it more interesting, I add a tiny pop of yellow, just a bit, and blend it out.

Finally, I work on the last petal. It's another folded one, so I keep the color very soft—a light pink wash again. I finish this petal gently, and just like that, we are done with this flower. 

And then I add some extra depth to the petals of the first flower and refine details. 

Step 2: Painting the Second Magnolia Flower

Now that the first flower is complete, I move on to the second magnolia. This one has more layering and subtle shadows, so timing and blending are key.

I start at the top flower and paint the first petal. As soon as I lay the color down, I immediately blend it off. It's essential to have a clean brush on standby so I can jump right in and soften the edges.

If I wait too long, harsh lines may form.

Next, I feel that the petal needs to be a bit darker, so I go back in to deepen the tone slightly. 

Next, I paint other petals. I also notice that two petals are blending into each other, looking like one shape. To fix this, I darken just the borders between them.

This helps make each petal stand out on its own.

Now I work on another petal. This one appears darker, so I know I'll return later to add more shadows in the second layer. I leave a small white gap between the petals to separate them.

Then I notice a bit of purple in one of the petals. To get that tone, I mix in some neutral tint with my other colors. I lay it down, bring the paint outward, and blend it softly.

I keep painting the petal besides. Using my clean brush, I lift off some pigment to refine the edge of the petal and give it a more delicate shape.

I also add more color to darken the tone before the second layer.

Before adding the second layer of shadows, I let the entire flower dry completely. This step is essential to avoid muddy colors or smudging.

Step 3: Add Depth with a Second Layer of Shadows to the Flowers

Once dry, I wet the area where I want to apply shadows. I do this very gently, ensuring not to disturb the dry paint beneath.

I focus the shadows in specific places to bring out the dimension of the petals.

I take a bit of brown paint, drop it into the pre-wet area, and use my clean size 6 brush to blend it out softly.

I repeat this process on another area—wet first, drop in just a tiny bit of brown, and blend again.

I continue to work like this: wetting the next petal, adding brown pigment, and blending it. Every time, I ensure the area is nicely pre-wet so the color spreads gently without sharp edges.

I almost miss one last petal, but I paint it too—same process: wet first, then a very soft wash of brown, and blend.

And that's it! I finish painting all the petals and shadows for the second magnolia flower.

Step 4: Adding the Final Touches: Branches and Buds

With both magnolia flowers complete, I now add the final touches—painting the branches and buds. These small details bring the whole piece together and help balance the colors.

Mix and Match for Natural Tones

To start, I mix brown, pink, and a bit of light green. This gives me a soft, earthy tone that works well for the branches and buds.

Before painting, I want to mention something important—how petals fold and bend in your pencil sketch matters greatly. It sets the base for how the flower will look in the end.

If you're not confident with freehand sketching, feel free to use a lightbox to trace the correct shape. That way, you won't worry about distorting the flower's form.

Now, I move on to the buds. I notice that the tips of these buds have a hint of green, so I paint that first. Then, I add brown at the bottom to show the depth and transition of color.

Add Purple and Sepia for Balance

Looking closely, I see that parts of the branch appear slightly purple. I want to bring that purple over to the branch to tie in with the purple I used earlier in the petals.

I apply the purple, connect it from the branch's top, and pull it downward.

Next, I grab some sepia and mix it with the purple to help integrate the colors.

This combination creates a more cohesive look, and you'll notice that the reflections of color on the branch make the whole painting feel more connected.

Finally, I paint in the little bud behind the branch and add even more depth by darkening key areas. 

Shape the Branch with Shadows and Curves

As I paint the branch, I ensure the lines aren't perfectly straight. I paint them with crooked and curved shapes, which gives the branch a more natural, organic feel.

Then, I use a darker sepia and drop pigment around areas where the branch bends. This helps add depth and shadow.

To avoid harsh edges, I use two brushes—one to apply the paint and the other to blend it out.

Once I finish blending everything, we are done painting all the petals, branches, and buds.

Step 5: Final Adjustments and Glazing

Before finishing up, I like to step back and look at the whole painting. This helps me spot any areas that still need work. Now, I notice a few spots that can use extra attention and color.

I start by bringing a touch of purple into an area that feels too white. I wet it slightly, then drop it in just a little purple and blend it out.

This helps close the white space and create smoother transitions. 

Next, I darken another spot using the same technique I used in the first layer—applying paint in the shadow areas and gently pulling it out.

At this stage, I check which parts need more detail or contrast. Adding darker values brings out depth and makes the whole flower more realistic.

I also feel one area looks dull, so I add a layer of red on top. This is called glazing. It's like the first technique, but now I'm applying color over an existing dry layer.

Glazing is excellent for adding brightness and richness. It's optional, but I encourage you to try it. I'm no longer looking at the reference photo—just my painting.

I keep adjusting shadows to separate petals and improve contrast. I enjoy how the colors now shift smoothly from dark to light.

Wrapping Up

I hope you enjoyed painting this magnolia flower with me! With just a few watercolor techniques and patience, you've created a heartfelt, handmade card with magnolia, perfect for Mother's Day.

Don't worry if it's not perfect—what matters most is the love and care behind your gift. Keep practicing, and each flower you paint will bloom even more beautifully.