Are you looking to master the art of painting trees in watercolor?
Each tree has its unique shape and structure, and understanding how to capture those details can take your painting skills to the next level.
In this guide, I'll walk you through step-by-step techniques for painting eight types of trees, from the simple basic tree to the majestic oak. Let's dive in and start painting!
Contents
Tree 1 – Basic Tree
Before we even pick up a brush, I like to spend a few moments analyzing the tree. I grab a piece of scrap paper and look at the basic structure of the tree in the reference image.
This helps me understand the shapes and different portions of the tree before I start painting.
When I look closely at the tree, I see several key sections: the trunk on the left side, some bigger branches extending outward, and the main tree trunk.
There are also different portions of the tree, with branches grouped together in sections. For example, one portion is on the left, while another is on top and slightly hanging down.
This helps me visualize the tree as a whole while also breaking it down into smaller, easier-to-paint sections.
Next, I focus on the light and shadow areas of the tree. This step is really important because it helps set the tone and depth of the painting.
From the reference photo, I can see that the shadows are mostly around the tree trunk. The sunlight seems to be coming from the top, which is why the shadows fall towards the bottom.
Each section of the tree has its own shadows, and understanding where these are will guide how I apply the paint.
It’s important to note that the lighter areas will be where the sunlight hits, while the darker areas will be where shadows fall.
Now that I understand the structure and shadows, I can start preparing my materials. For this basic tree, I grab two brushes: a size 6 brush and a size 10 brush.
The bigger brush will be for applying the lighter greens, while the smaller brush will be for adding the darker green tones to create the shadows.
I also mix up a few greens on my palette. I start with a light wash of green for the first layer, which will be the base color for the tree.
This helps me build the foundation before adding the darker shades for depth and shadows.
Starting with the size 10 brush and the light green, I begin to paint the tree’s first layer.
I follow the shapes I sketched earlier, using the tip of the brush to create tiny, irregular strokes that resemble leaves.
I start with the left portion of the tree and work my way across, adding more color as I go deeper into the tree.
The key here is to keep some white spaces between the strokes to suggest light shining through. These gaps will become important later when I paint the branches.
Once the first layer is down, I switch to the smaller size 6 brush to add the mid-tone greens.
I mix in a bit more pigment to create a darker green and focus on the areas that are naturally darker in the reference photo. This is where the shadows fall.
By using the smaller brush, I can be more precise with my placement of the darker tones.
I drop in the darker green carefully, making sure to follow the contours of the tree and the areas I’ve identified as being shadowed.
The wet-on-wet technique I’m using here allows the colors to blend softly, creating a more natural look.
As I continue painting, I try to connect all the different portions of the tree. Even though the tree has separate sections, I want it to feel like one cohesive unit.
So, I work to blend the edges where the different sections meet, ensuring the transition between them is smooth and natural.
The wet-on-wet technique makes this process easier, as the paint spreads and blends together. I focus on keeping the sections connected while still maintaining their individual characteristics.
Now that the basic structure is in place, I can focus on adding some finer details. I go back to my darker green and add a few more strokes where the leaves and branches meet.
This helps to define the tree more clearly and adds depth.
At this point, the first layer has started to dry, so I’ll use a bit of water to moisten the areas that need blending. This step helps create a soft, smooth transition between the layers.
You can see how the tree is starting to come to life with more dimension and shape.
Once the foliage is mostly done, I move on to the tree trunk. I mix up a dark brown paint and use the tip of my smaller brush to paint the trunk, starting from the bottom and working upwards.
I keep the trunk thin and vertical, using short strokes to create the texture of the bark.
I also add some smaller branches coming off the trunk. These branches are painted using the same dark brown, but they’re finer and more delicate.
I make sure to leave some white spaces between the branches to keep the tree feeling open and airy.
To finish the painting, I make some final adjustments. As the paint dries, I notice some areas could use a little more depth, so I go back in with a darker green to intensify the shadows.
This step helps the tree stand out more and feel more three-dimensional.
Tree 2 – Pine Tree
Now, let's move on to the second tree—the pine tree. I enjoy painting this one because of its simple yet iconic shape. It's all about building clean lines and repeating patterns.
When I paint a pine tree, I first think about its shape. The whole tree looks like a cone. That's the base structure I keep in mind.
Then, when I zoom in on the individual branches, I see they look like thin lines branching out, almost like a series of Y-shaped strokes.
So that's how I begin. I slowly repeat that basic Y-branch pattern to build up the full pine tree.
For this tree, I paint it directly on the paper—no sketching. I use a darker green because pine trees are usually deeper in color.
Starting from the top, I make tiny strokes for the fine leaves. I let a thin line off the tip to start the topmost branch.
I add more of these fine, short lines on both sides as I move down. The line in the middle becomes the main trunk.
I adjust the angle of each branch as I go, just a little, so the tree looks more natural.
I follow a reference photo, which I'll link in the description. If you're painting a pine tree for the first time, I suggest using a reference.
Study how each branch curves and where it grows out. Otherwise, it's easy to end up with a shape that feels off.
As I work down the tree, I also start mixing different greens from my palette. This helps the tree look more interesting and less flat. The variety in tone adds a sense of life and depth.
I keep all the branches growing outward from the center trunk, ensuring everything stays balanced. Toward the end, I go back in to darken the middle area to give it more dimension.
And that's it—our pine tree is done!
Tree 3 – Cypress Tree
Let's keep going with the third tree—the cypress tree. This one is also cone-shaped, but its brush strokes move in a different direction than the pine tree.
I love the simple form, yet it gives a unique texture.
To begin, I picture the cypress tree as a cone. That's the basic shape. But when I look at the branches, I notice they grow out at a slight upward angle.
So, when I paint, I match my brush strokes to that angle. This helps shape the tree naturally.
I start with the lightest green. To make it warmer, I mix in a bit of yellow. Then I go in with my brush and use strokes that follow that upward direction—short, loose lines that give the tree some air and texture.
I also leave small white gaps in between to keep it light and breathable.
Next, while that first layer is still wet, I use a more pigmented green and drop it in the center of each section.
The wet-on-wet technique lets the color spread outward, creating soft edges. It almost forms a V-shape pattern.
I break up the pattern a bit to avoid making the tree look too stiff or uniform. I let some strokes fall out of line. This makes the tree feel more natural, not too perfect.
Then, I take the darkest green and gently tap it into the center areas—just a tiny bit. Again, I keep that soft V-shape in mind, but keep it loose.
I also paint a smaller cypress tree beside the first one to add variety. I use a lighter wash with more water to make it look like it's farther away.
Just a touch of the darkest green adds depth and shadow. I also paint the second cypress tree with the same technique. And that's it—our cypress trees are complete!
Tree 4 – Poplar Tree
Now, let's move on to the poplar tree. At first glance, it might look a bit like the cypress tree, but there are some clear differences once you start painting. I find this one light and refreshing to paint.
The poplar tree has a similar tall, narrow shape, but its trunk shows more at the top. That's because the leaves end a little lower, which lets more of the trunk peek through.
Also, unlike the dense and tight leaves of the cypress, the poplar has more open space between its leaf clusters.
I start using light green with lots of water to keep the tone soft. Since I'm painting several more trees, I decide to make this one smaller.
I begin at the top and work downward. As I paint, I make sure the brush strokes are spaced apart to show that airy, open feel.
I keep the center line clear—that's the trunk. Then I take my other brush and paint in the trunk while the rest is still drying.
I'm careful to leave many white gaps so the tree doesn't look too heavy.
These gaps are key. They help the poplar tree look light, fresh, and breezy. I also avoid making the shapes too even or patterned. I let them be random and natural.
Before it dries completely, I drop in a second layer to build dimension. I do this while parts of the first layer are still wet, so everything blends nicely. That gives the tree a soft, natural texture.
And that's our poplar tree—simple, graceful, and charming.
Tree 5 – Elm Tree
Let's paint one of my favorite trees—the elm tree. I love how its shape is made up of separate leafy clusters.
It might look a little funny at first, but everything comes together beautifully once the branches are in place.
The elm tree has clearly defined bunches. I start with a small lot at the top, then move down to paint a slightly larger one.
At the bottom, I add the biggest bunch. The branches are quite visible in this tree, so I keep that in mind as I work.
I mix a poplar green with a bit of turquoise for the color. I begin painting the top bunch first. If I see a puddle forming, I dab my brush dry and lift off the extra water.
Next, I add the second bunch beside it, then go in with a darker green. I place that darker tone at the base of the leaf shapes to create the shadow.
Since the bottom bunch is the largest, I extend the shadows more. I also add a side bunch before finishing with the big lower one.
Now it's time to paint the branches. I start with thin lines from the top. I ensure every bunch is connected to the others and the main branch.
If the tree still looks off balance, I add another branch to even things out. And there you go—our elm tree, shaped and complete!
Tree 6 – Coconut Tree
Let's move on to something more tropical—the coconut tree! It's one of my favorite trees to paint, and I love the beach and summer vibe it brings to a scene.
I always start by understanding the basic shape of the coconut leaf. It begins with a central branch; from there, the leaflets fan out in a V-shape.
But here's the key detail: the V-shape starts wide at the base and gradually narrows as it moves to the end of the branch.
I often see beginners keep the V-shape equally open throughout, but that's not how it looks in nature.
When I paint the leaves, I begin at the branch and flick the brush outward. If you're new to this, feel free to practice with a pencil first to get used to the leaf's motion.
Then comes the tree trunk. Coconut trees often have leaves in various directions—some curve upwards, some hang down heavily, and others gently arc.
I make sure to include that variety. I also add coconuts in the center of the leaf cluster to complete the tropical feel.
I use a helpful reference photo to study the structure for this tree. I begin painting from the top.
First, I pull a line down, then curve it up slightly. Don't hesitate to rotate your paper if it helps you control your strokes better.
I flick the brush outwards from the center line to create the leaflets. To keep things interesting, I adjust the hue of my green by mixing in more yellow. This adds variety and makes the tree look more natural. I also use a brush with a sharp tip to make the fine, delicate lines easily.
Sometimes, I add a smaller leaf on the side and constantly change the greens to get more visual interest. As I paint, I move my wrist to give the strokes a light, curved motion. After the leaf structure is done, I darken the center with a deeper green to add depth.
For the trunk, I use yellow ochre to extend the top downwards. Then, I take burnt sienna to paint the shadows on one side of the trunk using simple downward strokes.
And, of course, I add a few coconuts in the middle to finish it all off.
That's it—we now have a beautiful coconut tree full of tropical energy and charm!
Tree 7 – Palm Tree
Next, let's paint a palm tree with a structure different from the coconut tree. Palm trees are tall and straight, with a sturdier trunk than coconut trees' curved, slanted shape.
The leaves of a palm tree start further down the trunk rather than at the top.
One thing to note is that the leaves often fan out, creating a shape that resembles a fan. Sometimes, they even open up in a fan-like formation. This is one of the key features that sets palm trees apart from coconut trees.
Before you start, practice drawing the fan-shaped leaves with a pencil. This will help you get a feel for the strokes.
For the leaves, I begin at the top with a fan shape, almost like a zigzag motion. I use a darker green for the first layer and then add a bit of yellow ochre to give the mixture some variety.
For the next leaf, I paint it downward, making sure it starts at the trunk, just like in my reference photo. Palm trees are visually distinct, with straight trunks and open, fan-shaped leaves.
Tree 8 – Oak Tree
Finally, let's paint an oak tree. Oak trees have a distinctive rounded shape, often looking like a mushroom.
To capture this, I break the tree into different clusters of leaves, forming that rounded shape. The key to painting an oak tree is to keep the overall mushroom shape light and airy.
For this, I use a size 8 brush, which is slightly bigger. I start with a darker color and use a second brush to add depth. I leave some white space between the clusters, but not too much.
As I go, I focus on darkening the bottom areas where the shadows naturally fall. Finally, I paint the tree trunk using brown.
Once everything is painted and the shadows are added, the oak tree comes to life with its unique shape!
We’ve just finished our 8 trees to paint in watercolor. It’s amazing how a few colors and strokes can bring nature to life on paper.
Wrapping Up
Now that you've learned how to paint eight trees, each with its character and techniques, it's time to practice and refine your skills.
Which tree will you paint first? Experiment with these methods and bring your watercolor landscapes to life—feel free to share your progress or ask any questions!